This State Park is beautiful and worth the drive out to the middle of nowhere. This is not Lake Ray Roberts or Eisenhower where the park is a short drive off main roads. Going to this park is a commitment: and worth it. Hiking to the waterfall, mountain biking along the river, kayaking the leisurely Colorado River, it's all great. Vault toilets are clean. Just know it's a low maintenance park which they very clearly state everywhere. Trails are well maintained which is what I cared about. Nice to have a bench, ample parking and restroom at trailhead for the Falls.
Deciphering what's going on with these campsites, however, is a deal. I spent hours before I went trying to figure out what's going on, and still did not "get it right" so I thought I'd try and help out some.
First of all, in the south area, those campsites 1-15, yes, you definitely need a wagon. You park above, go down some stairs and a hill and the sites are in big meadows along the river. I'm not sure why anyone would camp there unless they didn't know, or really wanted to be on the river or had a huge group. It looks very hassle-ish to me and not worth being on the river.
Then you've got 17-21. I read reviews for 17, 18, 19 and 20 and was still unclear. Although in retrospect I did remember reading that 19 was an accessible site which should have tipped me off. I was debating between 19 and 20 and went with 19 for the reviewer who said it had good tree coverage (which it does, over the picnic table. Not the tent space btw, which is in direct sun.)
Pros to 19: you park right next to your campsite. And you're next to the showerhead and water. Cons to 19: Everyone else is also parked right next to your campsite. 19 is directly adjacent to the parking area - and showering area - for Sites 17-21. So when the big group of dads was leaving they powered up their noisy diesel trucks (to charge their phones I guess?) and left them running for 20 minutes while I'm right there in my little campsite 19, which at that point, feels like I'm basically camping in the parking lot!! :) I had bought a wagon - you don't need it here, it's basically a drive up. So, if you need an accessible site and can't get 36-39 or one of the 40s, this is an appropriate option. I am attaching photos.
17, 18, 20 and 21 are down the hill e.g. down the stairs (which are kind of next to the tent area for 19) to a different meadow than 1-15. 17 and 18 are in their own little meadow area, and 20 is nice, kind of in the middle and has some trees, and 21 over a way from 20. When I was there the group of four dads and four sons were camping in 18 and they had their cornhole, tents, it's a great site for a big group - e.g. as long as you're up for the walk down, preferably with a wagon or many hands, as they had. (Also, you potential 19 campers, visitors over the years have carved a path directly from 18 up the hill - in the photo in those bushes behind the picnic table-that goes through your campsite to the parking area - instead of using the stairs. So all of the boys did this and most of the dads, for convenience, right through my site. I didn't care that much, I've got a teen boy myself - the running trucks were more annoying- but if that's an issue for you, be warned.) 18 is right alongside the river. 17 is fine too, just more of a hike as it's a little farther then 18. If you had a group of like 15 people, 17 and 18 would be nice.
Then you have 40-47. Those are drive up sites with the advantage of a picnic table awning (all except 44, no awning.) Nice BUT be warned (which was a problem with my site, too, 19) from 4-8 PM - which is when you want to be relaxing at your campsite after a big day - you are directly in the sun, which means it is hot and it is buggy. Very hot, very very buggy.
In my opinion, if you're planning ahead, the BEST sites to camp here at this park back up to a cliff-face, 36-39. If you can snag one of those, for sure, do that, is my recommendation. In the late afternoon Texas sun, the cliffs block that sunlight and I sat over there (after the campsites had cleared out) it was breezy, shady, not hot and NOT BUGGY, I guess because of the wind blowing through because of the cliff-face. Very nice. AND drive up. So this is my take. Prime real estate here at CB is these four sites.
24-28 are like 40-47 except not drive up. You park and then take your (hopefully) wagon across a little grassy area to your site.
I cannot really say much about the river backpack sites. I was confused by the map which shows a parking area close to the sites. I did see a parking area at the end, near Grey Fox group, but I never saw any tents set up when I biked the River Trail. But mysteriously, later when I kayaked I DID see a couple tents set up, near the cliffs, along the river, so I really don't know how they got there. Maybe when the River Trail is up in the meadow (there's a section through the meadow, maybe a mile) then that's where the tents are down below on the river? But I didn't see signs from the trail there saying "this way to River Backpack sites." I'm sure I missed the signs bc clearly there's a way to get there that I did not see.
I hope this is helpful. Enjoy this beautiful mecca of wilderness in the middle of the hill country!
Oh, one final reminder although its said many places and I started with it, this really is not like most of the state parks us North Texans camp at up here where there's at least one shop not too far from the park entrance. There's nothing. Take EVERYTHING you need. The nearest civilization to the campground is a good 45-minute drive. At least. Really about an hour. (which is what makes it so nice and peaceful.) The park store has emergency stuff but that's it.