Its not that I hate crowds...I just want to avoid them when I'm camping, when I can.

To choose Yellowstone and Mammoth Hot Springs, in particular, is foolhardy to think you can avoid crowds...unless...you go in the dead of winter. Which is what we decided to do. That...and we had heard that wildlife was prolific in and around that area, driven from the higher elevations in search for food.

As luck would have it, Mammoth Hot Springs is the only campground open all year in Yellowstone.

Now, remember...it is the west...you are still above 6,000 ft. and it is winter. Plan accordingly. I would have given this wintery haven five stars...but I was longing for a hot shower several days into our trip...nope, nada, forget about it. Although, they did have flush toilets, sinks and hand dryers (indispensible if nothing else would thaw you out).

The trip there was uneventful and roads were fairly clean of snow. However, there are signs everywhere that studded tires or chains were the law. Ugh, ooops! Didn't have either...and as fate would have it...we paid the price on the way out in heavy snowfall. But that should not detract from the campground or the park.

Not so surpisingly, we enjoyed the entire campground to ourselves in the first of March. A deep blanket of snow had covered everything...so we located a picnic table...and stomped down the snow in the outline of our tent...laid out the ground tarp and set up our tent (who knows if we set up in the right location).

We did visit the hot springs, the geyser was spewing forth from the earth like clockwork, even in the winter. It was enjoyable...but we came to skinny ski our way around the area.

Our first night was exciting, as we were met with the howls, yips and snarls of a pack of coyotes. Through the thin walls of the tent, it sounded as if they were circling the tent.

There were other X-country skiers and we actually did a loop with the ranger, a planned interpretive ski excursion. We joined them for a while and then broke off to explore some of the higher elevation ski loops.

It was eerily quiet, other than the sounds of the wind through the conifers. It should be noted that it is vitally important not to startle or get too close to any of the animals, especially at this time of year. These animals are trying to conserve energy, with lack of foods...and if startled, they could burn what little reserves they have.

We were treated with numerous wildlife sitings. My camera was not the best, so they don't capture but a portion of what we saw. Most of the trails we had to blaze new track from the heavy snowfall, but we were prepared. Make sure you bring plenty of water. Most people don't hydrate enough during winter activities...and you actually need more water.

We were privileged to ski beside giant bison, heads swaying back and forth, clearing the snow to forage what grass they could find...Big Horn sheep, elk and coyotes.

One morning we rose to footsteps beside our tent...believing it was those pesky coyotes...when I unzipped the tent door...in came a cow elk's muzzle. Yes, we will just say it caught me off guard. They tolerated our presence and hung out with us.

Beautiful views at every turn...and solitude...no crowds. Consider a winter Mammoth Hot Springs trip for yourself...you'll be glad you did! And bring your studded tires or tire chains.