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I visited Spider Rock and met the proprietor Howard Smith 20 years ago. He is still there maintaining this spacious campground on his own. It is rough around the edges but you will be very close to the rim of the canyon and within a short drive of amazing access points via car and foot. The campground has no amenities and is covered with a layer of fine red dust, but we did just fine in our 17-foot Casita RV. Call before you go to find out about limitations as the Navajo Nation has been hard hit by Covid. Don't miss the hike down into the canyon to see the White House (named after the large cliff dwelling ruin cut into white rock). The canyon is breathtaking: red cliffs surround lush-looking pastures cared for by Navajo inhabitants but off limits unless you access via Lighthouse Trail, which offers limited access to the canyon floor, or arrange a guided tour.
Indian Route 12 runs north to south and bisects the wheatfields lake and the main campground areas. Overnight camping and fires are discouraged along the lake but people get away with it. There is sporadic night traffic on the roadway throughout the night and it is sometimes loud. The campsites are hit and miss. Some have old dilapidated picnic tables and along with sandstone fire rings or barriers. The roads to the campsite are not graded and over time roads have been created through campsites with no regard.
There are 3 compost type toilet facilities at various parts of the lake. No running water. There are some trash receptacles but most leave their trash in piles next to the receptacles because the chutes to the receptacles are about 12x12 and wont accommodate a large trash bag. There are numerous stray dogs in the area that take advantage of the trash piles.
Fishing: I have only seen small rainbow trout. Stockers from the Navajo Hatchery in Toadlena NM. There is no motorized access to the east side of the lake as it was blocked off years back by metal tube barriers.
Too many rude fishers and kids running around unchecked. Fiddling with your fishing area and fishing gear.
Stayed here two night so we could hike and horse back ride in canyon de Chelly. This campground could be better the grasse in the site needed to be mowed. It’s a nice location close to the opening of the canyon and horseback rides are across the street. Be careful what you leave out theft here is a problem, we had our bumper hitch stolen while we were in town shopping.
… As far as campgrounds go, I would not choose this spot. It is close to a scenic national monument and is located right at the entrance and is easy to get in and out of. That is where the positives end. It is sparse and fairly packed. It doesn't have a ton of vegetation as it is in the desert so expert dirty and hot. The monument itself is worth experiencing but I wouldn't plan for it to be a destination, just a pit stop. I won't stay here again.
So open and wide in this state park, the sky is beautiful and the rocks are orange. I remember going here when I was younger and to revisit is just amazing. I would defiantly recommend this state park to anyone.