Not a quiet respite, but very close to the dunes (walkable/hikeable) and campsites were clean, with fire pits and picnic tables, well marked, and with a small camp store. Intermittent shade (my site didn’t have much) and a mix of sites that work better or worse for overlanders. Really look at the picture of your site before you book it. I brought a teardrop and it felt like I was kind of camping in the road (site 80.) This site would have been great for either tent campers or someone with a very large RV but I had hoped for a site I could back into that was a little more intimate. Families were loud, but I suppose that’s kind of to be expected. (I’m a single person and generally prefer disbursed camping.)
In any case, a rare treat to stay inside a national park. Overall it was great. I’d recommend renting a sand board before you enter the park (it was $20 at the oasis just before the park entrance) so you only have to wait in the line once.