BOTTOM LINE: Assateague State Park was a fantastic family tent camping experience.
BACKGROUND: We camped with our then-3 year old for two nights in early-October 2022 and stayed on the J Loop (walk-in tent camping only). The temp was low-40s to mid-60s, clear skies, slight continuous breeze.
- Key equipment: Nemo Wagontop 6-person tent, Exped MegaMat (double), ThermaRest single sleeping mat, Eureka! Ignite+ camp stove
DETAILS: Sorry for the random order of things, but here it goes...
Assateague State Park is very well-run and in great shape. Rangers are very friendly, though we interacted with a few rangers/staff who couldn't answer certain questions (but they did try to help or found someone who knew). There are also camp hosts--long-term visitors with additional responsibilities for managing camping areas--who were helpful, knowledgeable, and nice.
The facilities are really great. Particularly the bathhouses, which were immaculate for park bathrooms/showers. Expect potable water, private shower stalls with warm water, and very clean bathrooms.
Loops A-H were too cramped for our liking. Spaces are very close together, and it appears >75% of visitors are RV/camp trailers, so tent campers were stuck in between towering, loud vehicles. I Loop was still mostly vehicle campers, but there was a bit more space. I'd consider staying there if J Loop wasn't available.
J Loop (where we stayed) is a no-vehicle, no-generator area. It's technically a "walk-in" site, but the parking lot is about 200 feet from the loop entrance (it took about 2 mins to walk from our truck to the tent). We were able to quickly and easily carry all our gear from car to site, and still manage a toddler running around. J Loop sites are spaced-out far enough that you cannot hear each other--even during the quiet morning period or in the evening as the late-nighters stay up by their fires--but you have the comfort of knowing you're not totally alone and isolated. From J Loop sites, the walk to the beach is about 3-4 mins down a pedestrian (and horse) only sand trail. In October, the beach was effectively empty. We highly recommend J Loop for tent campers.
Tent pads are soft beach sand. Bring tent stakes made for sand! Regular piton stakes will not hold your tent in even the slightest wind. We used some plastic screw-in stakes from Amazon and they worked beautifully. Recommend 10" stakes, but you could get by with 7.5".
Sites include picnic tables (very sturdy and in very good shape), with a built-in food locker underneath the table. Lockers are not raccoon or bear proof -- just horse proof. Being so close to the beach, there's a steady light breeze all the time; and sometimes it a mild wind with slightly stronger gusts. Nothing worrisome--sand and dust were not flying in the air or anything--but for camp stove bring your wind shield, and for tents be sure to use sand stakes.
Sites also include fire rings with adjustable grills. Fire wood is sold at the ranger station, $5 per bundle. It's mostly yellow pine, which burns pretty quickly, so you'll probably go through 1-2 bundles per night, depending on your usage. After hours, firewood payments are on the honor system (cash box), or you can pay by card during business hours. Firewood sold out on our last night, so I recommend stocking up for a couple days worth of wood at a time. Sites do not have much in the way of natural shade, so if it's going to be sunny and/or if you are particularly sensitive to sunlight/burns, then consider bringing your own canopy, sun shade, or umbrella.
Weather-wise, in early October, the temperature was perfect for camping: warm enough during the day to be comfortable in pants or shorts and a long sleeve shirt, but not sweat; but cool enough to keep away all the bugs, and enjoy the warmth of a camp fire in the evening. We were able to enjoy daytime temps on the beach, and we could splash in the surf a little, but the water was way too cold to go swimming. For sleeping, this time of year I recommend a regular 3-season sleeping bag, but bring an extra warming layer if you sleep cold. (Of note, during warmer months the mosquitoes and flies can be overwhelming and oppressive. We were lucky to mitigate this by choosing a cooler time to camp.)
The Nature Center was closed while we were there, but it looked interesting -- a small building on stilts. It wouldn't be enough to fill a day, but maybe an hour or so (pending any programming the rangers might have). There was also a decent little playground, if you have kids -- but who needs a pg when you've got nature and a beach!?
From the state park, it's a short 7-10 min drive out, around, and south to the National Seashore (operated by the National Park Service). Assateague National Seashore has some nice, but short hiking trails/boardwalks, a couple historic sites, and more beach to explore. Being an entirely separate park, you will have to pay to access the Natl Seashore. To access the Chincoteague side of the national seashore, you'll have to drive the 1.5 hours back over the bridge, south to Chincoteague, and re-enter from the south entrance. You cannot get to Chincoteague (Virginia) from Assateague (Maryland).
The ranger station itself is pretty basic. They do sell ice and firewood, but not food/water/provisions, and the selection of knick-knacks was pretty scant.
In the future, we'll probably bring our bikes so we can quickly move between the state park and national seashore (it's probably quicker and simpler than driving), and we'll definitely bring our own canopy/sun shade.
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