Best Tent Camping in Alaska

This “semi-developed” campground in the park at Bartlett Cove near the Visitor’s Center is simply stunning. Campsites are free but require a permit and short briefing at the Visitor’s Center on the backcountry bear protocol. The campground has 36 individual walk-in sites (3-group sites) and the closest are around 1/4 miles from the parking lot. The park provides wheelbarrows to help tote your camping gear to the site. I point this out because we waited until arriving at the Visitor’s Center to prep our gear and food for our sea kayak trip and the distance from our campsite and parking lot required a lot of schlepping gear, food and many, many steps. It did, however, contribute to the remote feel of the campground. 

The campsites themselves, are simply bare spots on which to pitch your tent – no picnic tables or fire rings, but there are composting toilets in the campground.  No sites in the park can accommodate camping from your vehicle or trailer, though there is at least 1 small RV park in Gustavus about 10 miles away. 

Supplies and food should be brought with you, as the options for purchasing in Gustavus are limited. The park gift shop as well as the town’s general store does sell camping fuel in the small and green canisters – these cannot be brought on any airplane if you fly in.  At the campground, all food needs to be prepared and consumed on the rocky beach, in the intertidal zone, away from the camping area so that all food smells and debris are carried away by the water and do not attract bear curiosity. Regardless of the weather, you must cook here so bringing a small rain fly is a good idea. Food must be stored in the food cache shelters scattered along the trail winding through the campsite. 

As the weather can be cold and rainy anytime during the summer the park provides warming huts which are 3 sided shelters with wood stoves that a perfect place to hang out, dry off and warm up. Firewood is both copious and free. No food consumption or preparation should be done in these shelters. Back Country camping is available anywhere within the park except areas that are closed. Rangers will provide information on campsite selection as well as a lot of other information in the mandatory backcountry briefing held twice a day(10am& 6pm at the Visitor's Center).

Check out our video of our backcountry experience in Glacier Bay here:  https://youtu.be/bYmf6GKT5kA

We were lucky enough to visit this FREE (volunteer serviced) campground twice, once on our way into Alaska and once more on our way out. Just about 30 minutes from the US border services and 52 miles from the Canadian border services, this place is ideally suited to travelers.. And the endless sunset in the fall...well, our pictures tell that story!

Most of the campsites are small and will only accommodate rigs less than 30 feet total length, but a few might fit if you’re creative and skillful. The sites all have a picnic table and fire ring, and like many Alaskan campsites there are bear lockers for food storage for cyclists and motorcycle campers. The bathrooms were clean vault toilets, but drinking water wasn’t available - except from the lake.  While the campsites were wooded, there was a lot of open sky and the long days meant that we had plenty of solar power.  Roof top panels should be fine in many sites and portable solar suitcases could be put out in the others to collect what you need. 

Bring your paddle boats, with access to the lake right at the bottom of the loop, the paddling and fishing opportunities are great, and the waterfowl viewing is simply stunning. A short trail leads to a bird blind where birding enthusiasts can bring out their big lenses. Walking and hiking opportunities are limited to along the ALCAN, and watch out for the neighbor’s dogs when you go back up to the intersection – they take their "guard dog" job seriously. 

The nearest services are in Northway Junction which has occasional gas, another 45 miles toward Fairbanks and you reach the village of Tok, which offers all the things campers along the ALCAN need.  Be aware that the prices in Tok are less expensive than in Glen Allen at the local Three Bears grocery store, so stock up if you’re heading south along the Tok Cut-Off Hwy.

Campground: Portage – Williwaw   So many nice things about this campground and the other portage campgrounds.  I always like to give the warnings but hope this does not keep you from coming here.  Be prepared for WIND.  I mean big wind.  Bring extra stakes if you are tent camping.  Be prepared for rain, lots of rain.  Be prepared for wildlife encounters.  I cannot tell you how many times I have seen black bear along this road.   It is centrally located between Anchorage and the Peninsula but has so many things to offer.  Trip through the Whittier tunnel is a definite.  If you are a hiker Byron glacier in good weather is decent hike.  If you have kids and even if you don’t then the Wildlife Conservation Center of Alaska is great way to get close to the biggest animals Alaska has to offer.   Cell Service: No Internet: No 2020 Cost: $18-$28 Max stay: 14 days Distance from Anchorage: 55 Best sites: Premium sites $28 – 20, 21, 30, 34, 41, 50, 57 Also good are spots 24, 25, 26, and 38 Bug Factor (1 minimal to 10 too many to enjoy): 5 if it gets sunny the bugs come out

Distances are vast in the north country, and the drive back into this free campground will take at least an hour from the visitor’s center, but it’s worth it. Set along the banks of a small lake, each of the sites offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and enough space between sites to feel like you’re there alone. Vault toilets, well water, and the usual picnic table and fire ring are the only amenities. Wide open sky, but no electricity, so bring your solar powered system! 

Hiking, biking and paddling opportunities abound in the park, but bring your rubber boots because the ground is soft and many trails go through deep puddles. The road is paved and mostly good until mile 15 and then becomes a dirt road which is regularly maintained by the park service. Go slow as potholes and washboards are common regardless of the surface. 

The closest full services are in Tok about 45 miles away from the Nabesna Road turnoff, or further south in Glenallen. Groceries are far more expensive in Glenallen than in Tok so if you’re coming that way fill up!