I had heard about Umbagog Lake for years from my father who had taken multiple canoe camping trips in the area, but had never been here myself. Although it was my first time, it won't be my last. My review addresses the base camp, because I haven't been to the remote sites. This was a private campground converted to a state park about 20 years ago. Reservations are available online via Reserve America. It's also one of the few NH state parks that offers hookups (water & electric) if that matters to you. They have small bathrooms with flush toilets and showers (cold water free, hot water $0.25 for 5min; water pressure inconsistent. In addition, there are a few pit toilets scattered around.

Sites are generally small and wooded, but sites 1a-d and 3-4 are open/sunny and near the beach. Sites 41-43 are also lakefront, but wooded, large and level. I started in site 7 (the numbering system here makes no sense) and moved to site 48 after a couple of days. I had space for my teardrop trailer, but site 48 was much smaller. It was also close to the entrance and the parking lot. Avoid site 49 unless that's you're only option (it's on the point at the entrance)

The lake is a bright spot here and rowboat/kayak/canoe rentals are available as well as boat slips. Bring your own boat and there is a separate lot for parking your trailer. If you want a fire, buy your firewood when you arrive. I made the mistake of waiting and the office closed by 5pm on a weeknight and there weren't many options outside the campground.

Things to do: canoeing, kayaking, boating. In addition to Umbagog Lake itself, the Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge has multiple boat launches. I recommend heading over to Steamer Diamond Landing for early morning paddle with the loons. UNWR provides waterproof maps at the launches or at the visitor center (heard toward Errol and turn right/north on 16)

Moosewatching: pick up same map mentioned above from UNWR and look for the moose icons to give you a heads up where to look. Then as you drive along, look for the muddy wallows on the side of the road.You're most likely to see moose very early (sunrise) or as dusk. I saw 5 during my 5 days there.

Birdwatching: I loved the loons, bald eagles, and herons

Stargazing: it's be great if it weren't from the lights shining from the big trailers near the waterfront. Enjoy the dark sky during a new moon.

Grafton Notch State Park (Screw Auger Falls, Old Speck Mtn, Baldpate Mtn, AT crosses here); Step Falls Reserve (waterfall/swimming); and Bethel Maine are 30-60 minutes away in the opposite direction.