Went off-season (early October) and was able to take my pick of sore’s from the nearly-empty location.
Bathrooms were open. At the tower itself, both visitor centers were closed, though rangers were present.
Note: registration is available on-site via cash or check only. To use a credit/debit card, you must pay at the entrance station. Take the placard they give you (or the stub from the envelope if you pay at the site) and attach it to the pole next to your campsite.