At first glance, Hovenweep's campground seems almost barren and sun-scorched, perched as it is on a sagebrush mesa with few trees. But settle into your campsite, each with it own sunshade, and you will find yourself enjoying the sweeping view over canyons to Sleeping Ute Mountain. A cool breeze will come up, and then the stars start to appear, and they don't stop. This is the place to be for the Perseid Meteor Shower in August.
The ruins can be enjoyed on nice 1- to 2-mile stroll around the canyon rim. Or, you can be adventurous and hike 3-4 miles to several distant ruin groups along the pinon-topped mesa. All you will hear is silence, deep relaxing silence, and maybe a coyote or two.
The visitor center is especially nice, with a great selection of books about the Southwest. You might have planned to stay just one night, but you could find yourself lingering for a few more.
Also, the campground road is paved, as are the parking areas for each site, which is good news for RVs. And the sites are nicely spaced, with sunshades and picnic tables.
I have not camped in this area; I have just driven through several times on Comb Wash Road. The graded dirt road follows the spectacular 800-foot cliffs of Comb Ridge, so there is always miles of colorful scenery. However, there is almost no shade until one gets to UT 95 at the north end of the road, where there are groves of cottonwoods. The area seems like a reasonable place to camp, if you have your own water. It would be quiet, if you get far enough away from 95. It also would be a good choice for an RV, which is self-contained, because it is pretty flat. Not my first choice, but acceptable. Natural Bridges is less than an hour away, but can can get filled up, so this could be a good overflow solution.
I stayed in this campground once in August when the Pecos Conference was in Bluff, Utah. Compared to other campgrounds in the area, it is a little low (4300 feet), which means it can be very warm during the day. However, on that visit it was pleasant, especially at night. Great star viewing! It is spacious and can support groups. It also is flat and next to the San Juan River.
The main attraction is the wonderful Sand Island petroglyphs, one of the best panels in the Southwest. They line a cliff on the north side of the campground. The site seems to have been very popular in prehistoric times, because the petroglyphs go on for about 100 yards. There is even one wonderful visual joke involving a bunch of kokopellis, then a group of big-horn sheep, then …. (I won't give away the punch line). You will want a photo. And DON'T TOUCH any petroglyph. The pressure and the oils of your hand can be very damaging.
Photographing any petroglyph can be tricky, because they can be faded. In early morning, the sun shines directly on the cliff here, which brings out some details but washes out others. In the evening, it is in shadow, but you have more control over lighting. Experiment and good luck!
I visit this campground every year on my way to other areas of the Southwest. It is a beautiful high-desert site on a pinon-juniper-forested mesa top and is part of a national monument with two Pueblo III ruins set in the cliffs.
It really is two campgrounds within 1/4 mile, the Sunset View Campground with water and flush toilets, and the Canyon View Campground with composting toilets and no water on site. Both are quiet, well-tended sites with great views over the red-rock mesa. Sunset View tends to be more crowded, so, if you are looking for quiet and solitude, Canyon View may be your choice. At Sunset View, campers tend to congregate on the west side at sunset, which makes for a nice opportunity to socialize.
The monument offers twice-daily ranger-guided tours of Betatakin Ruin. It's about 3 miles round trip with a 500-foot loss and gain. Visitors should sign up ahead of time. Those who don't want to hike can see Betatakin from the cliff top on the opposite side of the canyon.
Fit hikers also can make the hike to distant Keet Seel ruin (8 miles one way), a beautiful cliff site. It may be possible to stay overnight at the ruin, depending on ranger availability. Check with the visitor center for current visitation policies for Keet Seel.
The monument has nice exhibits of typical Pueblo houses, implements and pots, an excellent short video and a large selection of books and videos. The park staff is local and knowledgeable. There are live demonstrations of Navajo weaving and painting by local artists (with the finished products for sale). The center's gift shop features well-chosen jewelry, rugs, pots and other art at reasonable prices.
In the old days this was just 65 miles of really bad road followed by a stunning view. Today, the road still is bad--especially that last 3 miles after you enter National Park Service (NPS) land (though I did it in a Toyota Corolla the first time)--and you need a permit. It's just $10, and they limit the number of people there, which is good. Still nothing beats that picture of yourself standing on the famous rock that juts out over the canyon. The campground is small with just nine sites, which now boast picnic tables and composting toilets. There are many prohibitions, also in my opinion a good thing because they keep it like it used to be years ago. Read EVERYTHING on the NPS web page, so you know what you're getting into. A word about the road: It generally is passable for any SUV, if the driver knows how to be careful with sand. But, as any experienced Southwest camper knows, everything can change with one summer monsoon shower. Stay informed, talk to people in Kanab or Fredonia about the latest word on the road. I went in May, which is usually dry, so no problem, but things can change in an afternoon. I also exited via Main Street Valley, a scenic drive that puts you out in St, George, Utah. However, it's very long, and you must have a full tank before leaving pavement. Good luck!
I had been camping in August by the Colorado River in Arizona, a mistake that time of year. About midnight I was too hot to sleep, and the mosquitos were eating me alive. I decided to move, and an hour later I rolled into Kingman, Ariz. to get gas. I saw a sign for Hualapai Mountain Park, and, knowing nothing about it, I took a chance. Within a couple of miles, the temperature had dropped and the air was fresh. I rolled into the park about midnight, somehow found a camping spot amid the towering Ponderosas and slipped into a deep sleep in the cool air. In the morning a friendly ranger reminded me to pay, nodding in understanding at the story of my escape from the desert. The campground itself was beautiful. The big Ponderosas kept the site cool well into the day--it is almost at 8,000 feet! Better yet was the short hiking trail I took the next day to a promontory on Aspen Peak with a stunning view east across Arizona. A memorable stay.
This beautiful, shady campground is at the end of a 9-mile County Road going north out of Blanding, Utah, but is well worth the trip. Although high up in the Abajo Mountains, the site itself is level and easily accessible. It has the usual Forest Service amenities of picnic tables, fire rings, vault toilets (no smell with new technology) and some potable water. The two campground hosts are friendly and knowledgeable about the area. There is a small Anasazi ruin about 2 miles away, but you can drive to within 1/2 mile of it. Even though this campground could be considered remote, the friendly vibe of the place makes it feel like home very quickly.